Wrapup

It is very easy to be superficial on the El Camino because of the language difficulties, but I hope that I meet Dennis and Mick again (and all the other 'peregrino's) somewhere again on the trail. I don't know when exactly, and I don't know where, but I will be on the El Camino again.

The most important realization about doing the El Camino is how much that I enjoyed the experience in its totality, how  much I accomplished as a cancer survivor and how far I went physically, mentally and spiritually during the hike.

I began the adventure with some concerns. I believe that there is more to come with anticipation.

Reflections on Walking the El Camino

Physically:

• The feet felt okay in the a.m., but by the end of the p.m., it was tough to keep hiking.
• The blisters and calluses were manageable, especially as I learned to take better medical care of them.
• The infection was the show stopper, but I made appointments with my PCP and podiatrist upon return to the states. I could see how it could have become worse, waking some morning and having had it spread. That made prudence the wise course of action.

General Thoughts:

• Spain is such a beautiful country with such gracious people.
• Spanish people dress classy; they don't dress like trash.
• Would I live in Spain? It's possible, but ...
• The politics are wrong for my outlook.
• The economy is bad.
• Spain has a weak foreign policy, it's not a world player.
• I guess I'm a born and bred Yankee.

It all came down to completing 80 miles (120 km) in 6 days (plus 1 rest day) for an average of 12 miles/hiking day at 5 - 6 hrs/day.

There were several moments where the El Camino experience led me to consider what I had taken on.

• My first order of coffee con leche and toastada in Camas brought back a ton of memories about breakfast in Spain.
• Meditating with the "Our Father" on the way to Real De La Jara.
• Taking my day off and wandering along the calles (streets) of Monasterio
• Sharing jokes and experiences with Mick (Leeds, England) along the hike
• Lunch with Dennis (the Canadian) in Almaden
• All the breath-taking hills, mountains, pastures, farms and fields that I never enjoyed when I was driving instead of walking
• Making it up hill after hill, climb after climb, slope after slope in an almost never-ending ascent

I have so many things to think about over the next year

• Have I changed somehow? It's hard to see yet, but time will tell.
• Maybe it's not the 'change', but the 'alterations' that a peregrino feels
• I chased away a lot of ghosts, and opened new doors in the process
• What will I be when I return to my previous life?
• Will the El Camino create a new life or was it an interruption in my life?
• After 2 - 3 days, the Via De La Plata became more than a vacation; it became a vocation. And so I regret that it came to an end prematurely. But that would imply that one is only a pilgrim while walking the El Camino.

The Way Home

Jorge has arranged to meet me at the bus station when I get to Sevilla. I will spend the night at his sister's house.  Being Semana Santa, Sevilla is impossibly crowded.

Then tomorrow he will get me to the airport and I will be headed home.

Leaving Fuente De Cantos
In the bus station of the last town to which I hiked, I walked outside in the morning sunlight.
I looked out to the horizon and realized how truly much that I had challenged myself on the El Camino Via De La Plata.

On the Bus
I saw three peregrinos walking along the El Camino, headed north, just like I had done days earlier. They were headed uphill ... a feeling with which I could now totally empathize.
Only by traveling back in the bus, could I realize just how many mountains, hills and uphill climbs I had completed, and how incessant they were along the trail.
I remembered that the trail went along roads in some places, and now I was able to see parts of the El Camino from the bus.

Back in Sevilla
With some time to kill before Jorge picked me up, I took another walk around Triana and Seville. I made it to the La Catedral and found my start point nine days earlier. I spent a few minutes just thinking about all that had happened and all that I accomplished.

Dinner at Berta's
My thanks to Berta, Sara and David for opening their home to me. I had a warm and heart-felt evening the night before my flight back to Rochester.
David gave me a tour of their hometown. We visited the church to see the "paso" (float) for the upcoming Holy Week parade.
Berta made an outstanding typical Spanish meal: sopa, tortilla, fried calamari and other courses. Topped off with Cruz Campo, it was fantastic.  And in typical Spanish fashion, we ate sumptuously around 10:00 pm.
The night was filled with warm conversation all around, and as always when in Spain, it is the night that matters, not the next morning. LOL, I made it to bed around midnight.

Jorge picked me up at 4:45 a.m. and off to the airport we went.

My sister(-in-law) shared some wonderful words of wisdom to consider at the end of this journey.

" ... nothing is wasted in God's economy.... and this is Lent... may your pains make you more compassionate, the slowness of the journey make you more patient with yourself and others, the obstacles keep your heart, mind and eyes open to whatever you must learn. Mash Allah ... " All things considered, I say that I had a good journey.

Jorge and David

Semana Santa Holy Sunday

I am so glad that I walked to Fuente De Cantos today.

It gave me one more day in the province of Extremadura.

The scenery was simply gorgeous.

By hanging in there, I showed that I could face up to a physical, mental and spiritual challenge and carry forward, even if just 'a bit'.

By doing it, I got to spend part of Holy Week in a land where Easter is more than chocolate bunnies, Easter Eggs and dinners. I watched people of deep faith relive the passion thru hard work, lots of practice and building a team.

Because I had made it to the small pueblo of Fuente De Cantos, I felt the emotion of the spectators for the 'confradia' up close and intimately. I was in a crowd of hundreds rather than thousands (like in Sevilla). As the "paso" aka float passed by me (mere feet away), I saw the artistic and exquisite detail and painstakingly created float; it was very artistic. During the music and the procession, I was close enough to feel "the passion", to indulge in it and to let it move thru me and produced a deep emotional impact on me.

As you watch the video, understand that the 'paso' is being carried by a group of young men (approx 50) who move forward in unison, inches at a time.

Palm Sunday in Fuente De Cantos

Monasterio to Fuente de Cantos

Well, unfortunately it had to come to an end.  The infection that I picked up three days ago does not seem to be getting better.  It's not worse, but it's not better.  I'm making the arrangements for travel now.  I expect to be back in Rochester Tuesday at 5:00 pm.

I still had a wonderful time and did things that I have never done before.  If I had to do it all over again, I would change little things, but that is all.

I am glad that I got one more day in.  It was 12 miles in 5 hours and I was cranking all the way. The blisters and calluses were manageable; I learned a lot of medical skills in the past couple of days.

I saw some more beautiful sights, and had one more beautiful Spanish sunrise before cruising into town. The hostel is gorgeous, just absolutely beautiful and the dueno is 3rd generation.


Day 7

Monasterio (Rest Day)

So this day is about flexibility.  This was not in my plans to spend a rest day in Monasterio.

But now that I am here, it reminds me of an old Navy (military) joke.

• The key to victory in battle is flexibility.
• The key to flexibility is having several options. 
• The key to having options is not to decide on one. 
• Therefore the key to victory is indecision. 

So today I will not make any decisions. Instead I started my day by crossing the street and having 'churros' (like waffle cakes but tubular), Cafe con leche and pineapple juice.

Given that I was remaining here for the day, I had hoped to see some peregrinos pass by my breakfast location, leaving for Fuente de Cantos (20kms), but no such luck. Obviously the pilgrims had already left, given the hour.

Clothes are washed and hanging on the line to dry.

Reflections on goals and accomplishments:

Goals	Accomplished
challenge long-term fortitude	hiking preps, Spanish practice, physical training
handle the unknown w/o help	committing to the plan, making the reservation, getting on the plane, completing each preparation
survive on my own in a foreign country	ordering food, drinks, room, directions, health concerns, casual conversion
preparation match reality	success
cultural experience	good food, drinks and friendly people, but no time for music or dance
met interesting people	done
meditate	learning
cancer survivor	hiked 60 miles in 80+ temperatures over 5 days

---

I was taking a practice walk around the town of about 2 km. This little ditty, to the tune of 'Leaving On A Jet Plane' came into my head. Kind of sums up the tug of war going on in my head right now.


I'm a hiking El Camino.
Leaving Monasterio.
Santiago, I have to go.

One more stage is all I need,
One more stop is all I want.
When I go back, I'll do my usual things.


Final Report: feeling better. Aiming for Fuente de Cantos.


A Day in Monasterio

Real de la Jara to Monasterio

Due to the condition of my feet, today is going to be painfully slow.

20 km or approx 12 miles.

...

By the time that I got to Monasterio, I had some feedback from stateside supporters.

Here is what Holly sent: "It's a quest and a spiritual journey. Keep your eyes open. It's about more than chalking up the miles. Maybe there's something you need to do or someone you are supposed to meet or something you are supposed to witness. What are you supposed to learn or experience on this day or in this moment?"

From Carol: "It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end."

At my first rest stop, I felt the urge/need to meditate and it seemed appropriate (on a pilgrimage) to recite the Our Father prayer. And since I had it in Spanish that was how I meditated for 10 minutes along a quiet dirt road with farm fields on both sides.

Later I found the most beautiful vista, and again I was able to just enjoy the spectacular scenery. So Holly's and Carol's words may have been quite apropos.

Unfortunately,  I had to visit the urgent care clinic here in Monasterio. The doctors said that it is heat related. Although I was ready for New York, my body was not ready for Spain.

The clinic in Real de la Jara was already closed by the time that I arrived there.  So I had to make the hike here. I did it but it was not enjoyable.  However the slow pace that I was obliged to follow opened up other possibilities.

I had the strong feeling that I would not continue tomorrow and that would mean letting go of some very interesting people that I had met over the past five days.

Mick: an irrepressible  Englishman with a great sense of wit and no end of amazing stories with which to regale you.

Dennis: a charming and generous Canadian who brought me many laughs and with whom I had a most fascinating lunch in Real de la Jara.

Paola: a gregarious Italian who did not speak Spanish but did understand it.  Yet somehow he communicated within our group of 4, bringing laughs,  smiles and warmth.

Ushi and Bruno: an open and interesting Swiss couple with whom I shared my first meal in Spain that warm summer evening in Galena. I went on to cross paths with them at least five more times as they biked the El Camino.

Chistine and Stefan: a welcoming Belgian couple whom I only met tonight over dinner. But we had a very interesting conversation about music like the Beatles,  the Monkees, Fldeetwood Mac and Tom Jones.

On the Road to Monasterio

Almaden to Real de la Jara

Bad day.  It was supposed to be an easy 13 km hike,  but my feet started feeling real bad.

Yesterday I picked up a second blister, but I treated it right away. It seems all right.  But when I took my shoes off at the hostel, I could see that my toenails were all white.  That is not supposed to be, and it is the first time that it has ever happened to me.

I am very confused at what is happening because I am wearing the clothes that I trained in, and I trained for these distances.

By the end of the day, I had three blisters and my left foot big toe had very severe chafing. I have never been a corpsman, but I do serve as a member of the workplace medical emergency team, so today I put my medical training to use. I pierced and patched the blisters, and a covering for the chafing.

This had better work or I will be coming home early.
My back up plan is to get to Monasterio tomorrow at a very slow pace which will expose me to a lot of sun.
If it does not get better, I will head to the medical clinic.


Day 4

Castilblanco to Almaden de la Plata

Today was a challenging day due to distance and conditions.

It was an 18 mile (30km) hike.  The first 9 miles were asphalt road which everyone uniformly agrees is the worst. What I remember most is that it was all uphill and behind every turn in the road was another hill.

The etiquette rule is that people get to walk at their own speed.  No one had to go slower or faster than they want.

I left with 2 other men but by 2 miles out they were ahead of me. I did my remaining 7 miles of pavement solo.  You talk to yourself, sing songs, swear and generally do what it takes to get into and stay in the zone.

The last 9 miles were in a national park so the scenery was much better. The sun was out in full force and it reached the mid-80's by that point.  The was almost no shade. Although I would occasionally pass or be passed by other peregrinos, the park was solo also.

The final 3 km was a 200 meter steep climb and descent of Calvary Hill. It was brutal. I think I rested 5 or 6 times. Amy place that I could find a shade tree. And that was few. This Hill is aptly named.

We started at 7:00 am and I reached the albergue at around 4:30 pm, chafed,  blistered and sunburned.

Kept crossing paths with Ushi and Bruno, a wonderful couple from Switzerland with whom I had dinner on Monday night.

After resting a bit,  at La Casa Concha, I had an incredible pilgrim's dinner of slamming pasta, lightly breaded and fried calamari, tinto verano (wine and tonic water drink) and custard with whipped cream and caramel sauce.

The Road to Almaden

Guillena to Castilblanco de Los Arroyos

Here are some words about todayś hike. It was all uphill, all the way. You can see by the rocks that it was quite a climb. Even at the last 4 kms, which was pavement, it was uphill. That made for quite a challenging day, and it was a relatively short hike (supposed to be easy).

Thanks to Genesee and Rochester Hiking Clubs for all the practice in the Ellison Park Wetlands and Irondequioit Park West.

Here is the story on the oranges. About halfway thru the hike, we came upon an orange grove which the workers were harvesting. On their way out, I asked if I could take a picture. They obliged and then gave all us peregrinos oranges. I can tell you that they were the juiciest oranges. The juice literally ran down my fingers.

Tomorrow we have the longest segment: 30 kms. In the heat, it will be a back breaker. 

Having dinner: 2 tapas (potato,  green pepper and tomato drenched in ice cold olive oil and calamari likewise).

To Carlos, my son: Thanks for the words of encouragement.  The champ will be thinking of you during tomorrow's slog. I just got word that it is 15 kms of pavement and 15 kms of trail. 

Just did some shopping at the supermarket as there are no facilities at all on tomorrow hike to Almaden de la Plata.

On the road - day 2

Seville to Guillena

My first full day,  and I had some very pleasant experience.

Here are my goals for today.

• Guillena at 23kms
• Start at sunrise at 8:00 am.
• Get 8 hours of sleep. I almost made that one. 

I spent the night at the Convento de Santa Rosalia. Unlike hostels,  I had a private room and sheets on the bed. I slept  pretty good after 24 hours of travel and being nerve-wracked.

Yesterday I did not meet any peregrinos in Seville.

I wrote a haiku for my first night.

White walls line cold tiles.
Convent Santa Rosalia
Silenciosa.

Vive Sevilla.
Ciudad de Sevilla
It lives for itself.

But last night I did have my first Tinto Verano in years, and it was fantastic.  Cold and icy.
Even if it was in a bottle,  instead of shaken,  not stirred.

On a physical note,  I have the feeling that the polyneuropothy has eased again.  I have more feeling in my feet ... Because of all the hiking.  I don't know.

And finally for the previous night ... I am reading The Three Musketeers on my tablet.  There is 512 pages so I don't think I will finish the book before I finish the El Camino.

So here is a bit about the hike.
I got lost in Triana. I end up getting out of the city by hiking on the expressway. On making it to Camas, I was ecstatic to be someplace that I was supposed to be. I should have eaten before I started out.  I was starving by the time I made it to Guillena, but it worked out.  Found a peregrino restaurant with an excellent meal: fish,  tortilla and salad plus a glass of the local white wine.







Photos Day 1

In Sevilla

After an uneventful flight,  Jorge meet me at the airport and after an eventful ride to the Convent of Santa Rosalia, I have a bed and a room for the night. Later on the trip, I can go with the more hostel type of accommodations. Tonight I just want peace and quiet.

Hear are some things that I accomplished this afternoon:

• Found my way to the cathedral. 
• Found my start point and way.  (Not necessarily how to get out of Sevilla proper.)
• Asked for help in Spanish from 3 strangers successfully
• Found this Starbucks and wi-fi. Really huge. 

Emotionally this is one big head rush to be all on my own and completely cut off from the outside world.  If I don't have wi-Fi,  I don't have connections.  It sounds so obvious but it is so true.  I have this huge nervous pit in my stomach when I am in the room to be so isolated.  How did people do it hundreds of years ago?  To be overseas meant to be away from loved ones for years with only letters to communicate.

That is why I had to call my mom,  granddaughter Adriana, grandson Jayden, Jaime and Carlos. I needed reassurance.

Oh beautiful Sevilla.  The streets are alive with people on a Sunday evening. Families are strolling thru the plazas.  Couples in love are holding hands in the shadows of buildings that are hundreds of years old. Friends are laughing in the plazas. Street musicians are playing.  This city is alive.

And to close for the night.  They write about the Via de la Plata that you must be prepared to be comfortable with yourself as you will be alone on many parts of the journey. Only now do I realize the total force of those words. As only being here can make it,  the aloneness is patently obvious.

Besides I trained in 0 C temperatures with snow and ice.  It's 25C and for me,  hotter than hell. There are people here with sweaters on. What is wrong with them?  Or with me?

Day 0 Sevilla

Leaving on a jet plane

Sitting at gate A6 at the Rochester International Airport, waiting for boarding.

 It is about to happen. Once I get on that plane,  the adventure begins.

 Yesterday was final preps day. The most important thing that I did was to stop by Eastern Mountain Sports one more time for a review of how the backpack worked. The csr (Dennis) was most helpful. I had forgotten some things about the straps and hooks and how to efficiently put the pack on and take it off. I'd say Dennis spent a half hour going over it all with me again. These backpacks are complicated. They are not just a standard shoulder pack.

 I am very grateful to Mercedes who is taking care of my dog and cat (Harold and Lola). She emailed me last night that both were doing well and that Harold had already taken over the couch. It was strange to not have them with me,  both when I went to bed and when I got up this morning,  but they are in good care.

****************

Made it to the Philidelphia USO. Free food,  wifi, couches, TV and a chance to relax in comfort. Makes me glad to be a USO donor.

... As I sit here in the the USO, there are two 20-somethings talking about their upcoming deployment to Khandahar and Bagram, Afganistan. 40 years ago, when I was starting my military service,  it was all about the Soviets and now it is about "what"? 40 years later and I am going hiking.

Everything had changed and nothing has changed.  

Final Practice Hike - 48 Hours to Departure

Harold and I headed out today at 9:45 for a hike from my place to Charlotte (8 miles), knowing that we would have to return that same distance. It was tough but we did it, and completing 16 miles was important psychologically to me, since several of my segments on the Via De La Plata will be that distance ( and a bit more).

It was quite the experience. For starters, we took a branch of the  Genesee Riverway Trail behind Riverside Cemetery. Unfortunately, the trail seemed to come to an end deep inside the cemetery. I was not too comfortable about taking a hole in the fence into Turning Point Park, but I had no desire at that point to double back. It worked out after finding a board put in place to ford a small creek.

Harold did quite well with his new companions for the month of April. He only got snippy once, and Beau put him in his place. Harold took a snack from Mercedes - always a good sign as he can be quite recalcitrant at interacting with people.

On the way home, Carlos (my son) and Josh (his good friend and co-worker) flagged me down. They were headed down St Paul and saw Harold and I headed south. It was great to stop and chat. My spirits were starting to flag at that point (about 14 miles at that point), and I needed a good jolt of encouragement to finish out the last two miles.

Boy, that was doable, and an accomplishment, and I'm ready for that distance, but it still was a tough hike to get under my belt - tough but necessary.

Less than 48 hours now till I board the plane for Spain ...

Harold	Me and Carlos